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The Luxury Secret Behind Better Skin: A Soapmaking Detail Most People Never Notice
When you’ve spent years formulating cold process soap—working with raw oils, butters, lye, cure times, and skin feedback—you learn quickly that the smallest decisions make the biggest difference. One of those decisions is something most people have never heard of, yet they feel it immediately on their skin.
It’s called superfatting.
Superfatting isn’t a trend, a marketing term, or an afterthought. It’s a deliberate formulation choice that separates ordinary soap from truly luxurious soap. And once you understand it, you begin to understand why some soaps leave your skin tight and dry, while others leave it calm, balanced, and quietly nourished.
What Is Superfatting in Soapmaking?
In its simplest definition, superfatting is the practice of intentionally leaving a small percentage of oils unsaponified in soap. In other words, not every drop of oil is converted into soap.
From a formulation standpoint, this is a choice. Soapmakers can design a recipe so that 100% of the oils react fully with lye. That creates a very efficient cleanser—but also one that can be harsh, stripping away the skin’s natural oils along with dirt.
Superfatting means we stop short, by design.
That remaining portion of oils stays intact within the finished bar, available to condition the skin during and after cleansing.
What Does “Superfat Percentage” Mean?
The superfat percentage refers to how much oil is intentionally left unreacted. In cold process soapmaking, this is typically expressed as a range—often somewhere between 3% and 10%, depending on the formulation goals.
Lower superfat levels create a firmer, more cleansing bar. Higher superfat levels create a richer, more conditioning soap with a creamier feel on the skin.
In luxury soapmaking, superfatting isn’t about excess for its own sake. It’s about balance—choosing a level that cleans effectively while respecting the skin barrier.
How Superfatting Works in Cold Process Soap
Cold process soap is chemistry guided by craftsmanship. Oils and butters react with lye in a process called saponification, transforming raw ingredients into soap and glycerin.
When a soap is superfatted, the lye amount is calculated to be slightly less than what would be required to convert all oils fully. This means:
- The soap still cleans effectively
- Natural glycerin remains intact
- Select oils or butters stay available to condition the skin
This is not accidental. It requires precision, experience, and testing—especially when working with luxury ingredients that behave differently under heat and cure.
Why Luxury Soaps Are Superfatted
Historically, heritage soapmaking traditions—particularly in European and small-batch American workshops—valued skin feel as much as cleansing power. Soap was meant to be used daily, not endured.
Mass-produced soaps shifted that philosophy. Their priority is shelf life, uniformity, and aggressive cleansing that works for everyone but benefits few.
Luxury soaps take a different approach.
They assume the user values comfort, ritual, and skin health. Superfatting is one of the primary ways that philosophy shows up in the bar.
Skin Benefits of Superfatted Soap
From years of formulation and customer feedback, the benefits of superfatted soap are consistent and noticeable.
It cleans without stripping
Superfatted soap removes dirt and impurities while preserving some of the skin’s natural oils. That balance is what prevents the tight, squeaky feeling many people associate with soap.
It supports the skin barrier
The skin barrier relies on lipids to function properly. Superfatted soap helps maintain that lipid balance rather than aggressively removing it.
It’s better for dry and sensitive skin
Those with dry, mature, or sensitive skin often notice an immediate difference when switching to superfatted soap—less dryness, less irritation, and improved comfort after washing.
Ingredients That Make Superfatting Luxurious
Not all oils are equal when it comes to superfatting. In luxury soapmaking, the choice of which oils remain unsaponified is as important as the superfat level itself.
Shea Butter
Shea butter is prized for its richness and skin-conditioning properties. When used as a superfat, it contributes to a soft, velvety after-feel without heaviness.
Olive Oil
Olive oil has been used in fine soap for centuries. As a superfat, it offers gentle conditioning and long-term skin comfort, particularly beneficial for daily use.
Plant-Based Oils
High-quality plant oils—when carefully selected—enhance slip, lather quality, and post-wash feel without leaving residue.
Luxury formulation is about restraint. The goal is not to overload the bar, but to let the right ingredients speak quietly and effectively.
Superfatted Soap vs Commercial Soap
One of the most common questions is why handmade soap feels so different from commercial bars.
Commercial soaps are often fully saponified or detergent-based, designed to remove oil efficiently and consistently. This is effective for cleaning—but not always kind to skin.
Superfatted soap, by contrast:
- Retains natural glycerin
- Leaves conditioning oils behind
- Cleans with intention rather than aggression
This difference becomes especially noticeable with daily use.
The Sensory Experience of Superfatted Luxury Soap
Luxury is not only about results—it’s about experience.
Superfatted soap produces a creamier, more cushiony lather. It rinses clean, yet leaves the skin feeling calm and balanced rather than dry.
Over time, many users describe a subtle shift: cleansing becomes less of a chore and more of a ritual. That is not accidental. It’s the result of thoughtful formulation.
Is Superfatted Soap Better for Your Skin?
For most people, yes—particularly those who wash frequently or live in dry climates.
That said, superfatting is not a one-size-fits-all solution. Very high superfat levels can feel heavy for some skin types. That’s why experienced soapmakers tailor superfat percentages to the intended use of the bar.
Better soap is not about extremes. It’s about understanding skin and respecting it.
The Gottfried’s Approach to Superfatting
In our workshop, superfatting is never a marketing checkbox. It’s part of a larger philosophy: purposeful formulation.
Every bar is made in small batches, allowing us to control superfat levels precisely, select specific oils for skin feel, and cure the soap slowly so it reaches its full potential.
We don’t formulate for trends. We formulate for daily use—for hands, for bodies, for skin that deserves better than harsh cleansing.
Final Thoughts: The Quiet Luxury of Superfatting
Superfatting is rarely advertised on a soap label. It doesn’t shout. It doesn’t sparkle. But it’s one of the most important decisions behind a truly good bar of soap.
It’s the difference between soap that simply cleans and soap that respects the skin.
And once you experience it, it’s hard to go back.